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	<title>Comments on: I want to sew my own clothes &#8211; skirts etc. Never done it before what sewing machine should I buy?</title>
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	<description>Everything You Need to Know about Skirts Clothing</description>
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		<title>By: kay</title>
		<link>http://www.skirtsclothing.com/skirts-clothing-2/i-want-to-sew-my-own-clothes-skirts-etc-never-done-it-before-what-sewing-machine-should-i-buy/comment-page-1/#comment-2098</link>
		<dc:creator>kay</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 14 May 2010 13:14:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.skirtsclothing.com/skirts-clothing-2/i-want-to-sew-my-own-clothes-skirts-etc-never-done-it-before-what-sewing-machine-should-i-buy/#comment-2098</guid>
		<description>Go try sewing machines out in a sewing machine dealer.  Be realistic about the amount you want to spend, and do consider older machines... sewing machines don&#039;t hold value well, so a trade in at the same price as a new machine may give you some really valuable features for sewing, like adjustable presser foot pressure, adjustable needle position, and really good stitching that you might not get in a new machine at the same price.  Watch out for bells and whistles that sound good but actually get in the way of a more experienced person -- needle threaders are one such bell... very useful if you can&#039;t see to thread a needle, but it&#039;s usually faster for most to thread one without the threader.  And they break easily.

More:
http://www.katedicey.co.uk/ (&quot;On the selection, care and feeding of sewing machines&quot;)
http://web.archive.org/web/20071021104932/http://cet.com/~pennys/faq/smfaq.htm

I&#039;ve recently visited dealers for most brands of machines in the US (I was compiling a listing for a sewing book in revision) and found some terrific deals on new machines with MSRP in the $500-1500 range (which will get you a machine that should last at least 20 years).  Generally, machines below about $300 MSRP are not economic to do any but the most minor repairs on, and some (Europro for one) don&#039;t have repair parts available.  

Buying a machine from a dealer (as opposed to Walmart, Costco, etc.) also gets you basic machine operation classes, and sometimes even some basic sewing classes.  Most of the &quot;sewing problems&quot; posted here in yahoo answers and elsewhere are actually &quot;user errors&quot; caused by not understanding how to properly thread or use a machine.  A little backup from a dealer can be very helpful when you&#039;re a newbie.  You can also often negotiate a bit at a machine dealer... if you know you want specific feet that are not included with the machine, this is a good time to bring that up as a deal sweetener.  Or a deal on actual sewing lessons, if the shop offers lessons beyond the usual free machine operation classes.  

I can&#039;t speak for all dealers, but the ones I was working with while revising the sewing machine chart were uniformly helpful to newbies who were in the store at the time, really working to make sure that they weren&#039;t buying &quot;too much machine&quot; and get frustrated, and enough machine that they could grow a little in their sewing journey without &quot;running out of machine&quot;.  When I was shopping for my last machine (about 12 years ago), I mentioned that I was having problems with stitching through elastic... not only was I shown several machines that could handle elastics easily, I was shown a really fast way to do elastic waistbands that look really good.   &lt;g&gt;

Of the inexpensive machines, I think Janome seems to have the sweet spot for good machines at a low price.  In the $300+ class, I&#039;d be looking at Bernina, Elna, Janome, Pfaff, Viking (in alphabetical order).  Me, I drive a Viking, about equivalent to the Sapphires, though fewer stitches.
Avoid machines that stall when stitching slowly.

And please don&#039;t buy a machine by stitches (or &quot;stitch functions&quot;) by number per dollar spent.  Once you get beyond about straight, stretch, zigzag, a couple of decent buttonholes, stretch blindhem and blindhem, you&#039;re probably not going to use the decorative stitches very often.  

Once you get things down to a few makes and models, you might want to check the machine reviews at http://www.patternreviews.com and see what other people think of that model.

Suggested reading at the library:

Carol Ahles: Fine Machine Sewing, particularly the beginning and ending chapters on how needles, thread, fabric and machine work together, and on selecting a new machine.  Carol&#039;s specialty is &quot;heirloom sewing&quot;, so much of the book is devoted to that -- but after you get your machine, sit down with the chapter on blindhemming and work through it.  It will save you an amazing amount of sewing time.

John Giordano: The Sewing Machine Book.  Excellent reading, especially if you&#039;re interested in a used machine.

Gale Grigg Hazen: Owner&#039;s Guide to Sewing Machines, Sergers and Knitting Machines -- about how to properly care for your machine and sewing habits that can cause damage.&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;50 years of sewing, much of it on straight stitch only machines.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Go try sewing machines out in a sewing machine dealer.  Be realistic about the amount you want to spend, and do consider older machines&#8230; sewing machines don&#8217;t hold value well, so a trade in at the same price as a new machine may give you some really valuable features for sewing, like adjustable presser foot pressure, adjustable needle position, and really good stitching that you might not get in a new machine at the same price.  Watch out for bells and whistles that sound good but actually get in the way of a more experienced person &#8212; needle threaders are one such bell&#8230; very useful if you can&#8217;t see to thread a needle, but it&#8217;s usually faster for most to thread one without the threader.  And they break easily.</p>
<p>More:<br />
<a href="http://www.katedicey.co.uk/" rel="nofollow">http://www.katedicey.co.uk/</a> (&quot;On the selection, care and feeding of sewing machines&quot;)<br />
<a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20071021104932/http://cet.com/~pennys/faq/smfaq.htm" rel="nofollow">http://web.archive.org/web/20071021104932/http://cet.com/~pennys/faq/smfaq.htm</a></p>
<p>I&#8217;ve recently visited dealers for most brands of machines in the US (I was compiling a listing for a sewing book in revision) and found some terrific deals on new machines with MSRP in the $500-1500 range (which will get you a machine that should last at least 20 years).  Generally, machines below about $300 MSRP are not economic to do any but the most minor repairs on, and some (Europro for one) don&#8217;t have repair parts available.  </p>
<p>Buying a machine from a dealer (as opposed to Walmart, Costco, etc.) also gets you basic machine operation classes, and sometimes even some basic sewing classes.  Most of the &quot;sewing problems&quot; posted here in yahoo answers and elsewhere are actually &quot;user errors&quot; caused by not understanding how to properly thread or use a machine.  A little backup from a dealer can be very helpful when you&#8217;re a newbie.  You can also often negotiate a bit at a machine dealer&#8230; if you know you want specific feet that are not included with the machine, this is a good time to bring that up as a deal sweetener.  Or a deal on actual sewing lessons, if the shop offers lessons beyond the usual free machine operation classes.  </p>
<p>I can&#8217;t speak for all dealers, but the ones I was working with while revising the sewing machine chart were uniformly helpful to newbies who were in the store at the time, really working to make sure that they weren&#8217;t buying &quot;too much machine&quot; and get frustrated, and enough machine that they could grow a little in their sewing journey without &quot;running out of machine&quot;.  When I was shopping for my last machine (about 12 years ago), I mentioned that I was having problems with stitching through elastic&#8230; not only was I shown several machines that could handle elastics easily, I was shown a really fast way to do elastic waistbands that look really good.   &lt;g&gt;</p>
<p>Of the inexpensive machines, I think Janome seems to have the sweet spot for good machines at a low price.  In the $300+ class, I&#8217;d be looking at Bernina, Elna, Janome, Pfaff, Viking (in alphabetical order).  Me, I drive a Viking, about equivalent to the Sapphires, though fewer stitches.<br />
Avoid machines that stall when stitching slowly.</p>
<p>And please don&#8217;t buy a machine by stitches (or &quot;stitch functions&quot;) by number per dollar spent.  Once you get beyond about straight, stretch, zigzag, a couple of decent buttonholes, stretch blindhem and blindhem, you&#8217;re probably not going to use the decorative stitches very often.  </p>
<p>Once you get things down to a few makes and models, you might want to check the machine reviews at <a href="http://www.patternreviews.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.patternreviews.com</a> and see what other people think of that model.</p>
<p>Suggested reading at the library:</p>
<p>Carol Ahles: Fine Machine Sewing, particularly the beginning and ending chapters on how needles, thread, fabric and machine work together, and on selecting a new machine.  Carol&#8217;s specialty is &quot;heirloom sewing&quot;, so much of the book is devoted to that &#8212; but after you get your machine, sit down with the chapter on blindhemming and work through it.  It will save you an amazing amount of sewing time.</p>
<p>John Giordano: The Sewing Machine Book.  Excellent reading, especially if you&#8217;re interested in a used machine.</p>
<p>Gale Grigg Hazen: Owner&#8217;s Guide to Sewing Machines, Sergers and Knitting Machines &#8212; about how to properly care for your machine and sewing habits that can cause damage.<br /><b>References : </b><br />50 years of sewing, much of it on straight stitch only machines.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Kat</title>
		<link>http://www.skirtsclothing.com/skirts-clothing-2/i-want-to-sew-my-own-clothes-skirts-etc-never-done-it-before-what-sewing-machine-should-i-buy/comment-page-1/#comment-2097</link>
		<dc:creator>Kat</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 14 May 2010 12:36:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.skirtsclothing.com/skirts-clothing-2/i-want-to-sew-my-own-clothes-skirts-etc-never-done-it-before-what-sewing-machine-should-i-buy/#comment-2097</guid>
		<description>I love, LOVE my Husqvarna Viking Emerald 118! I don&#039;t know what your budget is, but I purchased mine at JoAnn Fabrics for a little under $400.&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;References : &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I love, LOVE my Husqvarna Viking Emerald 118! I don&#8217;t know what your budget is, but I purchased mine at JoAnn Fabrics for a little under $400.<br /><b>References : </b></p>
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